Replacing natural grass with artificial grass can give you a cleaner, lower-maintenance lawn that stays green all year round — but the finish depends almost entirely on the preparation underneath. The turf itself is only the final layer. The real work is removing the old lawn, building a stable base, sorting drainage and fitting the grass properly.
This 14-step guide explains how a natural lawn is usually replaced with artificial grass, what materials are involved, and where DIY jobs most often go wrong.
🌱 Quick Answer: How do you replace natural grass with artificial grass?
- Remove the existing lawn and excavate to the correct depth
- Install edging, membrane and a compacted sub-base
- Add a final screed layer to create a smooth finish
- Roll out, cut, join and secure the artificial grass
- Brush the pile and check edges, joins and drainage before use
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🔑 Quick Takeaways
- Do not lay artificial grass straight over natural turf if you want a proper long-term finish.
- The base matters most because dips, soft spots and poor drainage usually come from bad prep.
- DIY is possible, but excavation, waste removal, compaction and cutting can be physically demanding.
- Professional installation is usually best for larger gardens, pets, poor drainage or awkward levels.
🧭 Jump to:
| 🧰 Tools and materials | 📏 Step 1: Measure the lawn |
| 🌱 Step 2: Remove old turf | Step 3: Excavate |
| 🧱 Step 6: Build the base | ✂️ Step 10: Cut and trim |
| 🔗 Step 11: Join the grass | ❓ FAQs |
💡 Quick Answer: To replace natural turf with artificial grass, the old lawn should be removed, the area excavated, edged, compacted and rebuilt with a stable drainage-friendly base before the artificial grass is laid, cut, joined and secured.
Materials and Tools You Need
Before replacing a natural lawn with artificial grass, make sure you have the right tools and materials ready.
Typical materials include:
- Artificial grass
- Geotextile membrane
- Type 1 MOT sub-base
- Sharp sand, grano dust or limestone fines for the screed layer
- Edging material, such as treated timber or concrete edging
- Joining tape
- Artificial grass adhesive
- Galvanised pins, nails or fixings where suitable
Useful tools include:
- Spade
- Wheelbarrow
- Stanley knife with sharp blades
- Rake
- Compactor plate
- Turf cutter for larger lawns
- Stiff brush or power brush
If you are comparing materials, our guide on what sand to use under artificial grass explains the differences between sharp sand, grano dust and limestone fines.
1. Measure the Lawn Properly
Start by measuring the full length and width of the area.
Do not just measure the visible lawn. Check:
- The widest point
- The longest point
- Any awkward corners or curves
- Where the grass will finish against patios, fences, beds or paths
- Whether joins are likely to be needed
Artificial grass usually comes in fixed roll widths, so accurate measuring helps reduce waste and avoid awkward joins.
2. Remove the Natural Grass
The old turf needs to come out before the artificial grass goes down.
For a very small patch, you may be able to remove it by hand with a spade. For larger gardens, a turf cutter will usually make the job quicker and cleaner.
Remove:
- Existing grass
- Roots
- Loose soil
- Old weeds
- Soft or unstable patches
Do not be tempted to lay artificial grass directly over natural turf. It may look like a shortcut, but it usually leads to movement, rotting organic matter, unevenness and poor drainage.
3. Excavate the Area to the Right Depth
Once the turf is removed, excavate the area to allow room for the sub-base and final screed layer.
As a general guide, many installations involve removing around 75mm from the intended finished height, although the exact depth depends on the ground, levels, drainage and specification.
This stage is where many DIY jobs become harder than expected. Soil removal is physical work, and larger lawns can produce a surprising amount of waste.
4. Check Levels and Drainage
Before adding new materials, check how the garden drains and where the final surface needs to sit.
Look for:
- Low spots that hold water
- Soft or boggy areas
- Slopes towards the house
- Uneven edges
- Existing drainage problems
If the old lawn was waterlogged, artificial grass will not magically fix the issue unless the base is designed properly. Our guide on what to put under artificial grass for drainage explains this in more detail.
5. Install the Edging
Edging gives the artificial grass something to finish against and helps keep the lawn secure.
Depending on the garden, edging may involve:
- Pressure-treated timber
- Concrete edging
- Existing paving or patio edges
- Kerbs or fixed borders
Concrete edging is often preferred where the grass finishes against tiles, paving or a hard border. Timber can work where extra support is needed and the grass needs to be fixed around the perimeter.
Good edging makes a big difference to the finished look. It also helps prevent weak edges, lifting and movement.
6. Build the Sub-Base
The sub-base gives the lawn its strength.
For many natural lawn replacements, a compacted Type 1 MOT sub-base is used because it locks together well, creates a stable foundation and supports drainage when installed correctly.
Spread the sub-base evenly across the area and rake it close to the required level, allowing space for the final screed layer.
This is one of the most important parts of the job. A weak base can lead to:
- Dips
- Lumps
- Poor drainage
- Movement underfoot
- A lawn that looks tired too quickly
For a wider explanation, see our guide on what to put under artificial grass.
7. Compact the Base
Once the sub-base is spread, it needs compacting properly.
Use a compactor plate and go over the area several times. In dry conditions, a light sprinkle of water can help Type 1 MOT bind together, but avoid over-wetting it. If it is already raining, skip the extra water.
Compaction is vital because it reduces movement and helps the base lock into a firm, stable layer.
8. Add the Final Screed Layer
A final screed layer is used to refine the levels and create a smoother surface before the artificial grass is laid.
Common options include:
- Sharp sand
- Grano dust
- 2-6mm limestone fines
This layer is normally spread thinly, levelled, compacted and then screeded to remove minor dips or imperfections.
Sharp sand is often easier to work with and cost-effective. Grano dust can compact very firmly but can be harder to screed. Limestone fines can be useful where drainage is a major consideration.
9. Lay the Geotextile Membrane
A geotextile membrane helps separate layers and reduce weed growth through the installation.
Roll the membrane across the prepared area, keeping it flat and overlapped where needed. Try not to disturb the final levels underneath.
A membrane helps, but it does not mean weeds can never appear. Airborne seeds can still settle on top of the grass over time, especially around edges and debris. Regular cleaning helps keep this under control.
10. Roll Out the Artificial Grass
Roll the artificial grass out carefully and let it settle.
Check the pile direction before cutting. Artificial grass has a natural direction, and if multiple pieces are used, they should face the same way. If not, the colour and shade can look different between sections.
Try to position the grass so that joins are sensible and waste is kept to a minimum.
11. Cut and Trim the Grass
Use a sharp Stanley knife to cut the grass from the backing side where possible.
Take your time around:
- Edges
- Steps
- Posts
- Curves
- Drain covers
- Patio borders
A single bad cut can ruin a section of turf, so this is not a stage to rush.
For more cutting detail, read our guide on how to cut artificial grass.
12. Join the Artificial Grass
If your lawn needs more than one piece of grass, the join needs to be neat, strong and aligned properly.
A typical join uses:
- Joining tape
- Artificial grass adhesive
- Careful pile alignment
- Weight or pressure while the adhesive cures
The pile direction must match, and the edges need to sit together cleanly. Poor joins are one of the easiest ways to spot a rushed artificial grass installation.
We cover this in more detail in our guide on how to join artificial grass.
13. Secure the Perimeter
Once the grass is cut and joined, secure it around the perimeter.
The method depends on the edge:
- Use suitable fixings into timber edging
- Use adhesive where appropriate on hard surfaces
- Use pins or staples only where suitable
- Do not rely on weak edges to hold the lawn long term
The right fixing method depends on the base and perimeter detail. Do not use glue where fixings are needed, and do not use staples where there is no suitable material to hold them.
For more detail, see our guide on how to secure artificial grass.
14. Brush and Finish the Lawn
Once the lawn is fixed, brush the pile upright.
Artificial grass can look flat when first unrolled, so brushing helps lift the fibres and improve the final appearance.
Check:
- Edges are secure
- Joins are neat
- The pile direction is consistent
- There are no obvious dips or bumps
- Water can drain properly
Then you can relax and enjoy the new lawn.
| Stage | Why It Matters | Common Mistake |
|---|---|---|
| Turf removal | Removes organic material and unstable grass | Laying straight over old lawn |
| Sub-base | Creates strength and stability | Using too much loose sand |
| Compaction | Reduces future movement | Not compacting enough |
| Joining | Keeps the lawn looking seamless | Mismatched pile direction |
Can You Replace Natural Grass With Artificial Grass Yourself?
Yes, you can replace natural grass with artificial grass yourself if you have the time, tools and confidence to do the groundwork properly.
DIY may be realistic for:
- Small lawns
- Simple square or rectangular areas
- Gardens with good access
- Ground that is already fairly level and well-draining
Professional installation is usually better for:
- Larger gardens
- Poor drainage
- Dog-friendly lawns
- Uneven or sloping ground
- Multiple joins
- Awkward cuts and edges
If you are still deciding between DIY and professional fitting, our guide on how to install artificial grass gives a broader overview.
🛠️ Expert Insight: Replacing natural turf is not just a roll-out job. The old lawn needs removing, the base needs rebuilding and the levels need correcting before the grass goes down. We don’t just lay grass — we lay proper groundwork. That’s the difference.
How Long Does It Take to Replace a Lawn With Artificial Grass?
The timescale depends on the size and complexity of the garden.
A small, straightforward lawn may be completed quickly by a professional team, while a larger garden with poor access, drainage problems or awkward levels can take longer.
The stages that usually take the most time are:
- Removing the old lawn
- Disposing of soil and waste
- Building and compacting the base
- Cutting around edges and features
- Joining multiple rolls neatly
If you want more detail on timescales, read our guide on how long artificial grass takes to lay.
Replacing Natural Grass for Dogs and Pets
Pet owners often replace natural turf because the lawn has become muddy, patchy or difficult to keep clean.
For dogs, the most important factors are:
- Good drainage
- Secure edges
- Durable grass
- Easy cleaning
- A base that will not hold urine smells
If your main reason for replacing the lawn is muddy paws or dog mess, take a look at our dog-friendly artificial grass service and our guide on pet-friendly artificial grass for muddy paws.
FAQs About Replacing Natural Grass With Artificial Grass
Can you lay artificial grass over natural grass?
You should not lay artificial grass directly over natural grass if you want a proper long-term finish. The old turf should usually be removed and replaced with a stable base.
How deep do you need to dig for artificial grass?
Many domestic installations involve excavating around 75mm from the intended finished height, but this depends on the ground, drainage and specification.
What base do you need under artificial grass?
A common build-up includes a geotextile membrane, compacted Type 1 MOT sub-base and a final screed layer such as sharp sand, grano dust or limestone fines.
Do you need a membrane under artificial grass?
Yes, a geotextile membrane is usually recommended to help separate layers and reduce weed growth through the installation.
Is replacing natural grass with artificial grass a DIY job?
It can be, especially for small and simple lawns. Larger gardens, poor drainage, pets, slopes and awkward joins are usually better handled professionally.
Will artificial grass fix a muddy lawn?
It can remove the mud problem, but only if the old lawn is removed and the new base is prepared properly. Poor drainage should be addressed before installation.
How do you join artificial grass?
Artificial grass is usually joined with specialist joining tape and adhesive. The pile direction must match and the edges need to be aligned carefully.
Do you need to brush artificial grass after fitting?
Yes. Brushing helps lift the pile after the grass has been rolled, improving the final appearance.
Replacing a Tired Natural Lawn?
If your real lawn has become muddy, patchy, uneven or hard to maintain, we can replace it with a properly installed artificial lawn built on the right base.
Get Help Replacing Natural Grass With Artificial Grass
Replacing natural turf with artificial grass can make your garden cleaner, greener and much easier to use throughout the year. But the quality of the finish depends on what happens before the grass is laid.
At As Good As Grass, we install artificial grass properly from the ground up, including old lawn removal, base preparation, drainage, cutting, joining and finishing.
Explore our artificial grass installation service or contact our team for a straight answer on your garden.
